The Road to Anapu


As I left Pacaja for Anapu I gave the bike a rinse, pumped the tires, oiled the chain, and realized my rear rack was cracked. I wasn´t surprised considering the weight I was carrying in water and supplies and the bone jarring washboard roads and viscious decents.

As steep as the hills are going up they of course are equally as steep going down. The problem is that you can´t just bomb down them due to the dust/sand, rocks, potholes etc. Some of them are downright technical. I made note that I was usually going only 10-12mph down these hills! What a waste of potential energy.

I left Pacaja an hour after sunrise and found myself pushing the bike uphill after only an hour of riding or so. Everyone told me the road became more tranquil after Pacaja…bullshit. By noon I was in a no name towned asking for a place to sleep I was so spent. However, after a few cokes and a power bar I felt I could make it to Anapu.

Since my map was off I actually was alot closer to Anapu than I thought. I had ridden the extra distance the day before. With that in mind it still took me 9 hours (or about 7 of straight riding) to “fetch my mark” as the sailor would say.

Anapu is where Sister Dorthy Stang was shot by loggers in 2005:

…at a remote encampment in the jungle about 30 miles from the town. Sister Dorothy – the most prominent activist to be murdered in the Amazon since Chico Mendez in 1988 – was shot six times in the head, throat and body at close range.

As with the death of Mr Mendez, a rubber tapper, the murder of Sister Dorothy has triggered waves of outrage among environmental and human rights activists who say she dedicated her life to helping the area’s poor, landless peasants and confronting the businesses that see the rainforest only as a resource to be plundered and which have already destroyed 20 per cent of its 1.6 million square miles.Link.

I rolled around town for a few minutes and found a hotel with a nasty manager. I attempted to repair my rear rack and work out some kinks in the rig. I was going to rest in this town for an extra day but decided to move on. The atmosphere was not that inviting and the town had little to offer.


6 Responses to “The Road to Anapu”
  1. I’m an American living in Goiania (near Brasilia). I’m impressed with your journey. Told a friend of mine who lives in Santarem. His comment “This guy must love eating dust.”. :-)

    I also put a link from my Blog to yours.

    The best,


    by ExpatBrazil
    on 04. Oct, 2009

  2. What the ….. flip.:)

    by Idario
    on 05. Oct, 2009

  3. Many of the people that you have encountered so far seem to have a negative dispostion – these small towns in remote parts of the Amazon don’t seem to offer as much to the people who have come as the American frontier did to European settlers, other than displacement of the indiginous population and a greater eradication of habitat.

    As for eating dust, going to Burning Man should be child’s play after what you have encountered thus far, and the shade and population are much more hospitable.

    by Ken
    on 06. Oct, 2009

  4. Thank you. Now that I´ve also seen the mud side of the TransAm I prefer the dust!

    by doug
    on 27. Oct, 2009

  5. [...] by the government that started the project, and now filled with morally reprehensible souls willing to kill for quick profit from the wood and resources found in the jungle. How easy it would be to point [...]

  6. ??

    by ???????????
    on 20. Aug, 2013

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